So, you want to own a hermit crab: here’s what you need to know

First things first: you cannot just own one hermit crab. Despite their name, they are social creatures who need other hermit crabs to have a fulfilled, long life. So if you want one, you at least need two!

Hermit crabs are heavily mistreated pets who are frequently taken from their natural habitats on beach coasts and put into the hands of children who tend to neglect their needs and ultimately, kill them. Despite typically not lasting a year in captivity with most care, hermit crabs can live to be 30 years old.

To properly take care of hermit crabs and let them live a full life, there are many basic necessities that most aren’t aware of- lets get into them!

TANK SET UP:

At minimum, you need a 10 gallon tank for 2 crabs. If you decide you want more crabs, you need to increase the tank size by 5 gallons for every crab you add.

Hermit crabs are found in tropical beach environments, so this needs to be imitated in their tank. This will be done  by having half the tank filled with soil substrate and the other with sand. At least 6 inches is needed to allow them room to burrow, tunnel and molt.

LIGHTING AND HEAT:

Crabs are nocturnal but still need daytime heat to warm the ground that they burrow and sleep in. Their natural habitats are anywhere from 70 degrees to 90 degrees, but the heat lamp should never exceed 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

Due to being nocturnal, they do not need light during the night, but they must still receive heat. This can be done by providing a heating mat under the tank that will keep the soil warm.

They don’t necessarily need a hot and cool side like most tank animals do, but having it set this way can make it easier as a care taker and allow the crabs to move to whichever temperature feels better to them.

CLIMBING, BURROWING AND HANGING:

The soil and sand in their environment need to be minimum 6 inches deep. This allows them the appropriate space to dig and burrow. They need this soil to molt, as they will stay submerged for the 1-2 week molting process because molting makes them vulnerable.

They also require hanging and climbing space. Hermit crabs are natural climbers and love to be active. Be sure to have hammocks, artificial plants, rope and other features that can be used to climb. To ensure safety, make sure they have the ability to climb from one fixture to another as well down to the ground from any of these fixtures. This is another reason deep substrate is important, so if there is a fall, they won’t be harmed.

SHELLS, SHELLS, SHELLS

You must provide an adequate amount of crab shells for your crabs. They molt their shells to grow frequently, and without shells to grow into, they can die or they will fight and kill other crabs for the shells they want. You can find crab shells in the wild or in stores, but you must clean them. This can be done by adding the empty shells to water and boiling them to kill off any bacteria before adding them to the habitat. There must be a range of shell sizes available, from small to extra large.

FOOD AND WATER:

FOOD:

Hermit crabs are scavengers in the wild. They will eat pretty much anything that they come across that is vegetation. In captivity, however, they do need a good supply of healthy, fresh foods to make their lifespan as long as possible.  They can be fed a variety diet of different fruits and vegetables, as well as various grains, nuts and berries, and even supplements like crushed oyster shell, cow bone and even worm castings.

WATER:

Hermit crabs must have 24/7 access to fresh water and salt water. Due to their costal habitat, they require both forms. The fresh water dish and salt water dish should be large enough for the crabs to submerge in. This will allow them to clean themselves and keep their shells moist and healthy. You will need to buy fresh water and salt water conditioners to provide these.

Aside from drinking and bathing, hermit crabs also require rain in their natural habitats. To imitate this, you must mist their tank daily, around night time. This will moisten empty shells and create a humid habitat that their natural environment has.

BEHAVIOR AND HANDLING:

BEHAVIOR:

Hermit crabs, as mentioned, are very social creatures among other hermit crabs. Towards humans, however, they are very shy and view us as predators. It will take time, even years, to develop a trusting relationship with their handler. To develop this trust, you can start by feeding them and putting water in their bowls while they are out, to get them used to seeing your hands and learn that you are not a threat. As you do this, you can start trying to hand the crabs food- such as coconut shavings or slices of produce, and see if they will take it.

The behavior they have among each other is interesting to watch. They communicate by barely-audible clicks and by moving their antennas in specific arrangements.

Although they are most often nocturnal, there are some crabs who like to come out during the day and snack and then return underground. Crabs can vary in habits just as humans do- so don’t be surprised to see your crabs act differently than others or go against the ‘norms’ of crab behavior.

HANDLING:

Once you have gained trust and are able to handle your hermit crabs, it is important to remember: they are crabs. They have claws and pincers that can feel like nothing or can break the skin, depending on the size of your crab and how comfortable they are with you.

To begin handling your crabs, you should start by wearing a sock or glove on your hand. If you feel a pinch it is really important not to instinctively drop the crab or move your hand erratically, which this is why it is also important to hold your crab close to a surface in the event that they do tumble or you drop it.

So, you want to own a Leopard gecko: here’s what you need to know

Leopard geckos are fascinating nocturnal creatures that, for the most part, live up-to their name. These geckos are defined by their pattern that mimics leopard spots and a thick, bulbous tail that many people find intriguing. There are mutations like albinism, as pictured, that can result in no spots.

These geckos are small lizards who originate from the arid regions in and around the Middle East, consisting of a desert-like environment with mountains and occasional rain.

Tank Set up

Environment 

Leopard geckos need, at minimum, a 10-gallon glass enclosure and can be in enclosures as large as 30-gallons. Although they are small, they like to move around and climb and explore.

They will need ‘two sides’ of their tank- a cool side and a hot side. To provide this, not only is correct light placement needed, but a cool hut and a hot hut will be needed- one on the far right of the tank and one on the far left.

For substrate they need either soil, sand or rocks to imitate their natural environment. They need some artificial plants, rocks and wood to make their environment more realistic and give them things to ‘discover’ and move around.

You will need a mist bottle to spray the enclosure about once a week. They do not live in rainy areas but do require small amount of humidity. This humidity will allow them to shed when needed.

Lighting and Heat

Leopard geckos lighting and heating are crucial to its quality of life and its longevity. Leopard geckos require a U.V.B. bulb to imitate sunlight and provide vitamin D, and they need either a heating pad or heat but to imitate heat during the day.

As mentioned, they need a cool side and a hot side of the tank. The heat pad or light and U.V.B. lights need to be on the hot side, and the cool side requires no light or heat.

 

Food, Water and Vitamins

Food

Leopard geckos need to have a variety diet of gut-loaded insects. These insects can vary from crickets, wax worms and mealworms. An important part of their diet is knowing if you have an adult leopard gecko or a younger one, as junior leopard geckos require daily feeding and adults require every-other to two-day feeding schedules.

Water

Leopard geckos need clean water available at all times. They also need a very shallow water bowl so they can access it and avoid being stuck in the bowl or not being able to reach it. Their water should be replaced daily.

Vitamins

Just as any living thing needs vitamins to be healthy and survive, your leopard gecko will need to have vitamin supplements to make-up for what they would normally receive in the wild. They receive vitamin D from the U.V.B. bulb but also require calcium. Without enough of both of these vitamins, they can develop bone issues. To give your leopard gecko calcium, you will need calcium powder that can be dusted on their food about once a week, or you can find calcium-rich fruits and vegetables to gut-load your live food.

General Care

Cleanliness and Body Care

Leopard geckos don’t require being washed unless there’s a special circumstance (like if their water spilt into the dirt and they got muddy), but their tank does require daily spot cleaning to remove their feces and keep any food scraps from going bad, molding or attracting pests. Another thing to check for daily if you have any wood or moss in the tank, is mold. With the water bowl inside the tank, humidity will rise which can lead to mold growth if not monitored.

On a weekly basis, their tank should be cleared out and spot cleaned, and you should be checking for any escaped live food. If their food is left alive, in the tank, it will continue to molt and grow- for example, meal worms will eventually become beetles that aren’t edible anymore.

Leopard geckos shed their skin as they grow. When they are shedding, they will become more dormant and likely not want to interact or be touched. When they begin shedding, make sure they have their cool hut and mist their tank twice a week during their shed. Do not, under any circumstance, remove their shed for them or try to help. The shedding process is natural and the time it takes (1-to-2 weeks) is natural. If you attempt to remove their shed, it will cause pain and remove the natural element of their own removal. Do not remove the fallen shed either, as they will eat it and get nutrients, just as they would in the wild.

A captive leopard gecko can grow as large as 15 to 20 centimeters and live for up to 20 years. To ensure healthy growth and life longevity, it is crucial to properly care and handle your gecko as well as have the financials to maintain its habitat and diet.

 

Personality and Bonding

Leopard geckos typically have a friendly personality and don’t mind moderate interaction and handling with their owner. However, this should not be forced or happen immediately. They will need a week to adjust to their new environment and destress. During this first week, it is important to hand-feed (use tweezers to bring a bug to them) so they can get used to seeing your hand, your scent and understand that you are taking care of them and providing their needs. After this week, you should put your hand in their without food and allow your gecko to approach it, sniff it and maybe even lick it, to establish trust.

Do not ever just grab the gecko, as this could send it into high stress and it could drop its tail. Although they are friendly companions, you need to approach your relationship at their pace and allow them to get comfortable with you. Even once there is trust, you still need to allow the gecko to be held on its terms to avoid high stress and tail dropping. Even if a gecko does not drop its tail, being in high stress situations can shorten its life span of 10 to 20 years.